A man raised in a little town becomes Pope. He returns to find his hilltop town to be run
down and deeply impoverished. He decides
to rebuild (renaming it in the process – after himself) as a miniature, and
first, model Renaissance town. This is
Pope Pius II in Pienza (formerly Corsignano) in the middle of the 15th
century.
A man raised in a little town – actually in an
other-side-of-the-tracks village near a little town -- becomes a dictator. Inspired in part by Piena, he returns to his
hometown, and merges the village and the town, makes his home an object of
veneration, and provides a model for new town planning of future towns built south
of Rome such as Sabaudia. This is Benito Mussolini in
Predappio (which absorbed Dovia di Predappio, Mussolini’s birthplace) in the
1920s.
Which all goes to show you: that so much of history’s
actions – and certainly many of the worst actions – can be traced back to
childhood trauma and insecurity, and inability to move beyond it without acts
of grandeur and violence. Tongue in
cheek hyperbole, certainly, but with a touch of earnestness.
On our way home from Predappio and Cortona, we took a
spectacular drive through Tuscany and stopped in Pienza for coffee and
photographs. We were there on a special flower and plant market.
I picked up a slab of their specialty, pecorino, with bits
of truffle inside. And four tiny
cacti. Perfect, miniature worlds, like
the miniature renaissance town that is Pienza, and like the rich pictorial and
emotional world made by Cortona’s brilliant native son, Luca Signorelli’s,
whose hand captures the reflection of burgundy (apologies: this color should be
called “Montepulciano” in Tuscany) on the gold of a saint's dress.
Duomo (14620
Dietrich Neumann and Ruth Lo
Luca Signorelli, Lamentation over the Dead Christ (1502, Museo Diocesano, Cortona)
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